This recipe was inspired by one using partridges that appeared in "The Taste of Spain, " by Camilla Jessel.

Season hens with salt and pepper. Heat a bit of oil in a large heavy pan and brown the birds in it on all sides. Add garlic to pan and stir until it takes on a pale color. Add vinegar, 2 cups of the stock, the vermouth and onions and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover tightly and cook gently until birds are very tender, about 1 hour.

Heat remaining cup of stock in a pan large enough to hold the pear halves. Add pears and poach until barely tender; remove with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Add chestnuts to poaching liquid and simmer until heated through; remove and keep warm.

Remove birds to a heated serving platter or plates. Strain cooking liquid, return to heat and add grated chocolate, stirring until it is a good sauce consistency. Pour over birds and garnish with pears, chestnuts, the fried bread, a few raisins and some chopped parsley.

cut slices diagonally to make 8 triangles. Fry quickly in a little hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain and keep warm.

Per Serving: 1, 090 calories, 86 g protein, 52 g carbohy- drate, 58 g fat (17 g saturated), 249 mg cholesterol, 367 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.

Jayne Benet writing in the San Francisco Chronicle, 3/18/92.