Combine milk, salt to taste, cayenne and white pepper in saucepan. Cook gently over medium heat until milk comes to simmer. Remove from heat.

Cook macaroni in boiling, salted water until al dente. Drain and aside.

Melt butter over medium heat and whisk in flour, stirring frequently, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Whisk in milk mixture until well-blended. Simmer 4 to 5 minutes.

Over low heat, whisk jack cheese and goat cheese into mixture until cheese barely melts. Combine cooked macaroni with sauce, mix well. Adjust seasonings to taste, then transfer to 2-quart casserole. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes.

Heat olive oil in skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs cook, stirring frequently, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add chopped garlic at last minute. Cool mixture, then crumble coarsely by hand or in food processor. Toss with Parmesan cheese.

Sprinkle partially cooked macaroni with garlic bread crumbs bake 10 to 15 minutes longer.

restaurant, the cooked macaroni and cheese is not baked but ladled into individual heat-proof serving dishes, sprinkled with the crumb mixture and browned under a broiler.

Per serving: 794 calories, 34 grams protein, 35 grams fat, 74 grams cholesterol, 86 grams carbohydrate, 603 milligrams sod less than 1 gram fiber.

From the Oregonian's FOodday, 1/26/93.