Garnish suggestions: blanched bean sprouts, fresh coriander leaves cucumber shreds, and vinegar and chili oil mixed 2:1

Heat the oil in a wok and add the pork. Stir and mash to break the pork into granules. Add the bean sauce and sugar and cook, stirring until the sauce is piping hot.

Turn off the heat and prepare the noodles.

Bring a large quantity of water to boil in a large pot and add the noodles. Cook the noodles until they're the texture you want, 4 minutes or so.

Drain thoroughly and sprinkle with a little sesame oil.

Quickly reheat the sauce and stir in the scallions. Turn off the heat and sprinkle with sesame oil.

Serve the noodles with the pork sauce on the side and any or all of the garnishes.

San Francisco Chronicle. 1/13/88.