To prepare pork, remove and discard any sinew and trim off large pieces of fat on the exterior. Cut pork across the grain into 1/4inch (1/2-cm) thick slices (if you're having trouble with this, it helps to partially freeze the meat first). Transfer pork to a large sealable plastic bag. Stir together remaining ingredients in a small bowl until well combined. Add to pork and turn pork to coat, then squeeze bag to eliminate as much air as possible and seal.

Marinate pork, refrigerated, for at least 2 hours.

Put a rack in lower third of oven and preheat oven to 425°F/220 °C. Remove pork from marinade, reserving marinade, and position pork strips 1 inch apart on a wire rack set above a foil-lined roasting pan. Bring marinade to a boil in a 1-quart saucepan (marinade may look curdled), and boil until it has reduced to a thick syrup.

Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Brush some marinade over pork and roast for about 10 minutes. Generously baste meat again with marinade, turn each piece over, and baste again. Roast pork for 15-20 minutes more, basting 2 or 3 more times with remaining marinade, until cooked through, glistening and caramelized around the edges. Cool slightly, and trim into pieces that will fit inside the baguettes.

Mix together the warm water, vinegar, sugar and salt. Stir until everything dissolves and add the carrots and daikon (if using). Let stand for at least 1 hour. Drain well before using.

Warm the baguettes slightly in the oven to revive their crispiness.

To assemble the sandwiches, cut open the baguettes on one side, slather with mayonnaise, and layer some of each of the remaining ingredients, to taste.

inside my Seattle Deli bssnh mì was some form of char siu, a Chinese barbecued pork that lends a delicious sweet-salty dimension to the sandwich (and seems to be a popular addition in Us bssnh mìs - I don't know about Vietnam?). If you live near a large Chinese market you can probably come by char siu with relatively little hassle; however it's really not difficult to make yourself, particularly using this simple recipe from The Gourmet Cookbook. And while a bssnh mì can be made with any number of things including chicken, paté, sausage, fish and tofu, I'm partial to this version which I find so unspeakably delicious I honestly can't imagine making it any other way.

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