(Author's note): In a Cretan zacharoplasteion (sweet shop), we were so intrigued by these coconut pastries (among the newer breed) that I tried them at home. You can expect the potato pastry to be a bit difficult to manipulate, and you can also anticipate compliments on the results. Attractive and tasty, not excessively sweet.

Boil the potatoes in their jackets until fork tender, then drain and remove the skins and all spots. Return the potatoes to the pan and dry over medium heat, shaking pan constantly. Push the potatoes through a mill or ricer, then combine in a large bowl with the sugar and salt. When somewhat cool, add the egg yolks and coconut and knead until smooth. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and knead until smooth enough to roll. If sticky, dust lightly with flour. Roll out on a floured board to 1/4-inch thickness, then, using a glass with a 3-1/2-inch diameter, cut the pastry into rounds.

Meanwhile, mince the glaceed fruit. Place 1 tablespoon on the center of each of the pastry rounds. Lift one side with a spatula and fold over the other half, forming a half-circle. Press the edges together and place on a baking sheet. Continue until all have been stuffed, then bake in a moderate oven (350 F) for 15 minutes, or until firm; the pastries will be white. Remove and cool for 10 minutes, then roll in confectioners' sugar and cool completely. Store in a covered container.

producing an attractive edging.

Books, New York.